Alpha Hydroxyacid Peels
Alpha hydroxyacid is the term used for several naturally occurring acids
found in fruits and other foods. These include lactic acid, derived from sour milk; citric
acid, derived from citric fruit such as oranges; and glycolic acid, derived from sugar
cane. Alpha hydroxyacids have been used for centuries. Cleopatra used lactic acid from
sour milk to lessen lines and blemishes on her face.
Alpha hydroxyacids are helpful in treating a variety of skin ailments.
They have proven to be effective in treating dry skin, acne, liver or sun spots, lessening
fine facial wrinkles, and improving skin texture. Recent studies have also shown that
alpha hydroxyacids can reverse precancerous skin lesions, which are due to long term sun
exposure. These acids have been shown to increase skin thickness up to 15% in patients
with sun damaged thin skin. This occurs through the stimulation of collagen production,
the skins natural support protein. Alpha hydroxyacids also work by loosening and removing
dead skin cells.
Many people ask if alpha hydroxyacids are safe. It is important to point
out that these acids are in many of the healthiest foods we eat and drink including orange
juice. They are thought to be very safe when used correctly.
Alpha hydroxyacids can be used in low concentrations as found in many
cosmetics available over the counter, in medium concentrations which are available in
doctors offices, and in high concentrations. When used in high concentrations, they
are best applied by a professional at intervals of three to six weeks. This is known as a
series of acid peels. The alpha hydroxyacid used most commonly for peels is gylocic acid.
Unlike other chemical peels, alpha hydroxyacids are not toxic to the skin.
Side Effects:
- The most common side effect after a peel is brown discoloration of the
skin. This is usually reversible but can rarely be permanent. This side effect usually
occurs only in those who have had sun exposure after a peel.
- Peels can cause persistent redness of the skin.
- If you get cold sores, a peel can cause them to flare. This can be
prevented by taking a prescription drug named Acyclovir.
Who Should Not Have a Peel:
If you have any of the following problems, a peel should not be done at
this time and you need to let us know immediately:
- Accutane use within the past six (6) months
- Active herpes simplex (cold sores)
- Facial Warts
- If you are now pregnant
- If you form keloid or hypertrophic scars
- If you have a history of sun allergies
- Prior bad reaction to a peel
- Recent radiation treatment for cancer
- Sun burn or significant sun exposure in the last two days
- Surgery or cryosurgery within the last month to the area that you plan to
have peeled
What to Do Before Your Peel:
- Two weeks before your peel, begin your Neostrata regimen, recommended by
your esthetician.
- At least three to four weeks before your first peel, stop using Retin-A
and exfoliating sponges.
- All forms of hair removal should be stopped at least three to four weeks
before your peel.
- Come to the office with a fully cleansed face. If possible, no cologne or
after shave should be applied. Also try to avoid shaving the day of your peel.
- In order to prevent an unanticipated deepening of your peel, please
inform your esthetician if you have accidentally used one of the restricted products.
How the Peel is Done:
- First, the esthetician will review the possible side effects of a peel
with you and give you a consent form to sign.
- Next, your skin will be cleansed thoroughly with Neostrata PrePeel
cleanser.
- Petroleum jelly will be applied to the corners of the eyes, nose, and
mouth.
- Glycolic acid will then be applied to one area of the face at a time. The
glycolic acid will then be left on the skin for several minutes. The skin will burn and
tingle. When the skin becomes uncomfortable, let the esthetician know and she will
neutralize the peel.
- After the peel has been neutralized, the face is rinsed. NutriCream and
sunscreen are then applied.
What to Do After Your Peel:
- For 2-4 days after the peel, apply the Post-Peel NutriCream twice daily
until the skin returns to its normal appearance. Then restart your maintenance regimen of
NeoStrata products.
- You must use a sunscreen of SPF 25 or higher every morning before going
out. Sunlight on the skin after a peel can cause brown discoloration of the skin. Apply
the sunscreen over the NeoStata NutriCream. A good sunscreen to use is Shade Lotion SPF
45.
- You may start wearing make-up the day after your peel, provided you do
not have any crusting or tenderness.
- To avoid the possibility of scarring, please do not peel, pick, scrape,
or scratch the skin. Avoid the use of abrasive or exfoliating sponges.
- If you have persistent redness in an area, let your esthetician know
right away. Persistent redness of the skin can lead to brown discoloration of the red area
if it is not treated promptly.
- Do not use Retin-A during your peel sessions and for one month after the
last peel.
- During your series of peels, and for at least one month after the last
peel, you should not have hair removed by any technique because it can cause severe
irritation of the skin. Also, you should avoid intense sunlight because you are sensative
to the sun as well.
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